It is so nice to be cruising again! We had a brisk sail from Savusavu/Cousteau to Viani Bay, which is near “Rainbow Reef”, famous for colorful coral and diversity. Viani Bay Resort and the Fiji Dive Academy are nestled in the head of the bay, and we took full advantage of both.

Diving

Stunning is the only way to describe the Rainbow Reef, and pictures capture only a partial image of the reef’s sheer magnitude. Fiji Dive Academy carries a maximum of four divers per boat, which was perfect for us because we hadn’t scuba-dived since last season. Our first dive in the “Zoo” was slow dive along the outside of the reef, an area known for diversity of wildlife. Our depth averaged 60 feet (~18 meters), which allowed us to view the peaks and valleys of the reef. It reminds me of driving along the Oregon coast with mountains on one side and the big blue ocean on the other. I’ll be studying coral and fish identification, and in my introductory phase, lets just say they’re pretty. I could identify the shark and barracuda.

Our second dive was a drift dive into the corner of the reef, then we passed along the “purple wall”. Our fellow divers had taught diving in and then managed a Borneo dive resort for eight years, accumulating over 4,000 dives each. Eight years ago, they quit and bought a boat so that they could get back in the water. They said they hadn’t seen coral like this since Borneo. So beautiful! Now we have to go to Borneo.

Next was a snorkel on top of the reef corner and “purple wall”, which was similar to flying a small plane over the Oregon coast. Being on top of the reef provides a different perspective and is also beautiful.

Our final snorkel was on Nuku Reef, which is in the pass between the islands of Vanuatu Levu and Taveuni. This reef contained more areas of sand, and reminded me of a flyover of a desert landscape after a rainstorm, with colorful coral and expanses of sand.

Coral and Giant Clam Recovery

In cooperation with local communities, an area in the bay has been designated for Viani Bay Resort to work on coral restoration and giant clam recovery.

Across the globe, coral is dying and in many areas it is unlikely to recover, including the now bleached (and mostly dead) Great Barrier Reef in Australia. Increasing ocean temperatures and magnitude of storms are stressing coral, and when we throw in pollution and over-fishing, coral can’t survive. Corals are nurseries and protection for fish, and the fish eat the algae that otherwise smother the living coral. Communities have established “no-take” zones and reserves, which provide a benefit to the much larger area.

Now to coral restoration: When hard coral dies, the remaining structure can be used to plant coral, somewhat like grafting a vine or tree. We used a bristled hand brush to clear the algae from the coral, placed a small piece of living coral on the cleared area, then weighed it down with a wet cement-like mixture. Perhaps using this technique, hardier coral that can sustain warmer temperatures and other stressors can be transplanted on the reefs that are dead or dying.

Giant clams have been over-harvested and are endangered. We viewed some ~30 year old clams in the reserve, and then went to the “nursery”. The Fisheries Ministry provided a batch of two year old clams that are protected in a cage. They’re ready to spawn, and will hopefully create more baby clams and increase the population. With the no-take protection, they should be able to reach maturity.

Now to Finding Nemo (a Disney/Pixar movie)… On a separate snorkel in the bay we spotted a clownfish nestled in a sea anemone (Nemo being the middle letters). In the coral restoration talk, we learned that clownfish and sea anemones have a symbiotic relationship. Clownfish hide in the anemones and help provide nutrients. Researchers have observed that when anemones are stressed, clownfish venture further to provide additional nourishment to their hosts. No wonder Nemo got caught in the current!

Viani Bay

What a precious place! About 15 boats were anchored in the peaceful bay sheltered from the wind by the island of Taveuni across the pass. Our days were spent diving or snorkeling, then many cruisers went to the happy hour at the resort around 4. On Wednesday nights, the resort hosts a cruisers’ potluck, providing the space and utensils.

For the second time, we were joined in an anchorage by the opulent 372 foot Infinity, along with her 100 plus foot companion boat Intrepid. I guess when you have a huge yacht, a second boat is necessary for 43 crew members, helicopter and other toys. The contrast with the local community is almost sickening. An Aussie lamented that it is the same the world over, and not surprisingly, neither crew nor owner joined the cruisers’ potluck or happy hour.

The primary school is adjacent to the resort and it was fun to see the kids and teachers, although we didn’t interact much. In our absence, based on the kids’ smiles at our arrival and sand all over our dinghy upon departure, we think dinghies make pretty good bouncy toys.

School starts at 9 AM and each day, we saw the school boat pick up kids from around the bay to deliver them to school. It turns out that John, our diveboat captain, is also the school bus driver.

Paradise and Viki Moore!

We reluctantly pulled up anchor in Viani Bay, setting our sights on Paradise Resort, a short 13 miles away. Viki Moore heads up the Island Cruising Rally we’ve participated in, and we wanted to thank her in person for sharing her wealth of knowledge and enthusiasm. Viki’s support and the rally community have greatly enhanced our enjoyment over the last year. We enjoyed a delicious dinner and great conversation at the resort.

What’s Next

We rose early the next morning to seize a weather window to motor sail southeast to the Southern Lau Group. Given the prevailing winds come from the southeast, when they shift, sailors move! After a quick run to the bakery for a few fresh vegetables, we set sail. We had a pretty smooth trip until 4 AM the next morning, when the wind shifted from the west, bringing 35 knot winds and heavy rains. We diverted from Fulaga/Vulaga to an anchorage at Yagasa with a wider approach and happily set anchor before noon. We’ll stay here for a couple days and then move to Fulaga.